Chevron scarf pattern

I’m sure you’ve noticed the temperature dropping so it is the perfect time to start knitting a scarf for the winter months ahead. The design of this scarf makes it a suitable gift for both males and females.

As with my other knitting patterns, this scarf is a rectangle with no increases or decreases, so is suitable for those with basic knitting abilities – as well as being a quick project for the more experienced 😉

grey chevron knitted unisex scarf pattern beginnerAbbreviations I have not mentioned before are:

Sl1 – slip stitch knitwise (put right needle through stitch on left needle as if to knit but just slip it onto right needle without knitting)

Sl1p – slip stitch purlwise (put right needle through stitch on left needle as if to purl but just slip it onto right needle without purling)

Here is a video I found on Youtube that demonstrating slip stitches

By slipping, instead of working the first stitch on the row, you end up with a neater edge!

Chevron Scarf

I used 7mm needles & 100g chunky yarn to make a scarf approx 5″ wide & 44″ long. Use more yarn for a longer scarf.

As this is a scarf you do not need to check the gauge.

Cast on 24 sts

For beginning row only (RS): [K2, p2] 4 sts in brackets to be repeated 5 more times.

Now continue with Row 1 of 1st pattern

1st Pattern:
Row 1 : Sl1, k1, [p2, k2] to last 2 sts, p2
Row 2: Sl1, [p2, k2] to last 3 sts, p2, k1
Row 3: Sl1p, [k2, p2] to last 3 sts, k2, p1
Row 4: Sl1, p1, [k2, p2] to last 2 sts, k2
Row 5: Sl1p, p1, [k2, p2] to last 2 sts, k2
Row 6: Sl1p, [k2, p2] to last 3 st3, k2, p1
Row 7: Sl1, [p2, k2] to last 3 sts, p2, k1
Row 8: Sl1p, k1, [p2, k2] to last 2 sts, p2

Rows 1-8 of 1st pattern repeated (in total 16rows)

2nd pattern:

Row 1: Sl1, k1, [p2, k2] to last 2 sts, p2
Row 2: Sl1, [k2, p2] to last 3 sts, k2,p1
Row 3: Sl1, [p2, k2] to last 3 sts, p2, k1
Row 4: Sl1p, p1, [k2, p2] to last 2 sts, k2
Row 5: Sl1p, p1, [k2, p2] to last 2 sts, k2
Row 6: Sl1p, [p2, k2] to last 3 st3, p2, k1
Row 7: Sl1p, [k2, p2] to last 3 sts, k2, p1
Row 8: Sl1, k1, [p2, k2] to last 2 sts, p2

Now repeat rows 1-8 of 2nd pattern (in total 16 rows)

Continue working as above: 1st pattern (8 rows) twice followed by 2nd pattern (8 rows) twice until desired length. For the best effect, try to finish at the end of the 2nd repeat of a pattern.

Cast off


Geometric sock pattern

The sewing class was cancelled last week due to snow so I have put my dress on hold until I can get some advice on making alterations.

I like to have lots of projects on the go so decided to design a simple sock pattern. Although the design would be a lot more visible with plain yarn I have some lovely self patterning yarn in my stash that I really wanted to use so I’m using Drops Fabel sock yarn in 903p. The yarn print colours are so nice that I knew the socks would look lovely. Also I can use the leftover yarn to make more squidgy hexipuffs for my quilt 😉

This isn’t suitable for a beginner but anyone who can knit in the round (maybe you’ve tried the hexipuffs and want something more challenging). The goemetric pattern texture is made simply from alternated knit and purl stitches, the heel isn’t as difficult and fiddly as many patterns and they are knitted from the toe up so you can try them on for size as you go!

knitting toe up geometric pattern sockknitting toe up geometric pattern socks design on DPNsclose up knitted geometric sock patternGeometric pattern socks

I am knitting with 100g Drops Fabel sock yarn (2 x 50g balls) or you can use 100g of any 4 ply yarn and a set of 5 double pointed needles size 2.75mm/US#2

My socks fit a medium size woman 8inch/20cm circumference unstretched and 11inch/28cm stretched. The foot can be knitted any length to fit

To make these socks I have used Judy’s magic cast on for the toe and Judy’s surprisingly stretchy bind off for the cuff of the socks

These are really useful techniques to know. Click on the highlighted techniques above to link to videos on You Tube

You will also need to follow a chart for the geometric design. As you are working in the round and always face the right side of the sock you will read the pattern from right to left, travelling up the pattern as you work on each row

Start at the bottom right stitch. The chart is for 7 stitches so repeated  i.e knit stitch 1-7 of the row then start at 1 on the same row again and repeat these stitches as many times as needed for the patterned area

The abbreviations used are:

DPN – double pointed needle

K – knit

KFB – knit into both front of stitch (as normal Knit) then also the back of the same stitch (increases by 1 stitch). This creates a stitch with a bar across mimicking a purl stitch then a knit stitch from one stitch

M1L – make 1 left to increase by 1 stitch. Use the tip of left needle to pick up the horizontal strand of yarn before the next stitch to be knitted. Pick up front to back of strand and knit through the back of this new stitch. Makes a left leaning stitch increase

M1R – make 1 right to increase by 1 stitch. Use the tip of left needle to pick up the horizontal strand of yarn before the next stitch to be knitted. Pick up back to front of strand and knit through the front of this new stitch. Makes a right leaning stitch increase. You use M1L/M1R to increase and get a symmetrical look

P – Purl

P2tog – put tip of right needle through the front of the next two stitches and purl together as with a single purl stitch

SL – slip a stitch. Use tip of right needle to pick up the stitch as if to knit/purl but just slip it off the left needle so it has been transferred without working on it

St/sts – stitch/stitches

SSK – slip slip knit to decrease a stitch. Slip the next two stitches as with slip stitch so they are on the right needle then push the left needle through the front of these stitches from left to right and knit both of them together

Both socks are identical


Using 3 of your DPNs cast on 24 stitches using Judy’s magic cast on method. You will have knitted into the front of 12 stitches on the 1st needle and the back of the 12 sts on the 2nd needle for one row. Transfer 6 of the stitches from each needle onto another DPN being careful not to twist them. You now have 4 needles with 6 sts on each and now ready to start the toe increase

Row 1 – KFB. Knit rest of stitches on needles 1 & 2 until the last stitch on needle 2 and KFB on that stitch. Repeat on needles 3 & 4

Row 2 – Knit all stitches

Keep repeating these 2 rows 7 more times. You will increase by 4 sts each repeat and finish after row 2 with 56 sts


The first 28 sts (needles 1 & 2) form the instep of the sock and the remaining 28sts (needles 3 & 4) the sole

Pattern chart

geometric pattern knitting chartWork the 7 sts of the pattern 4 times over the instep stitches and knit all 28 sole stitches. Continue, repeating the chart pattern after row 14, until the foot is 2 ½” / 6½cm shorter than your foot length. Take a note of the amount of rows worked to ensure the other sock matches

Heel Gusset

Row 1 – Continue pattern across instep stitches. On sole stitches (needles 3 & 4) K1, M1L, knit until last sole stitch, M1R, K1

Row 2 – Continue pattern across instep. Knit all sole stitches without increasing

Repeat these 2 rows until the sole has 52sts, ending after row 1 of repeat

Continue pattern across instep stitches. The shaping for the heel is worked only on the sole stitches

* Take note of the last row of the pattern you worked as you will need to continue from here later

Heel shaping

Start from 1st stitch of sole. Row:

  1. K27, SSK, K1, turn
  2. SL1, P3, P2tog, P1, turn
  3. SL 1, K4, SSK, K1, turn
  4. SL1, P5, P2tog, P1, turn
  5. SL 1, K6, SSK, K1, turn
  6. SL1, P7, P2tog, P1, turn
  7. SL 1, K8, SSK, K1, turn
  8. SL1, P9, P2tog, P1, turn
  9. SL 1, K10, SSK, K1, turn
  10. SL1, P11, P2tog, P1, turn
  11. SL 1, K12, SSK, K1, turn
  12. SL1, P13, P2tog, P1, turn
  13. SL 1, K14, SSK, K1, turn
  14. SL1, P15, P2tog, P1, turn
  15. SL 1, K16, SSK, K1, turn
  16. SL 1, P17, P2tog, P1, turn
  17. SL 1, K18, SSK, K1, turn
  18. SL1, P19, P2tog, P1, turn
  19. SL 1, K20, SSK, K1, turn
  20. SL1, P21, P2tog, P1, turn
  21. SL 1, K22, SSK, K1, turn
  22. SL1, P23, P2tog, P1, turn
  23. SL 1, K24, SSK, K1, turn
  24. SL1, P25, P2tog, P1, turn
  25. SL 1, K27 (28stitches)

To re-join the heel to the instep without creating a hole at the join you need to pick up a stitch between the last heel stitch and the first instep stitch as in M1L. Instead of knitting the stitch alone, knit it together through the back of the loop along with the next instep stitch. This will count as the first stitch of the instep row

The pattern for the instep will continue from the last row * before the heel shaping.

After completing this instep row (28stitches) pick up a stitch as in M1L and knit it together through the back along with the next heel stitch. This will count as the first stitch of the heel row. Knit across the remaining heel stitches (28stitches)


Continue knitting in the round across ALL 56 STITCHES IN THE PATTERN REPEAT until the leg is 4” / 10cm long (or desired height if you have enough yarn). Take a note of the amount of rows worked to ensure the other sock matches.

Rib (K1 stitch, P1 stitch – repeated over 56 stitches) for 2 rows

Bind off using Judy’s surprisingly stretchy bind off  technique

Knitting for beginners first project – mobile phone cover

Congratulations! Following the tutorials you have now learnt the foundation stitches and techniques for knitting 🙂

I have written these instructions to knit a phone cover. It is an easy small project to make use of your new skills. You will practice the slip knot,casting on, knit stitch and casting off. It is rewarding as you will have a finished item quite quickly.

I have used less than 50g of double knit (dk) acrylic yarn and 4.5mm needles. This is a good thickness of yarn and needle size for beginners and usually the cheapest yarn to buy.

It has been made to fit an iPhone.

  1. Cast on 16 stitches.
  2. Knit 90 rows.
  3. Cast (bind) off.
  4. Fold the finished knitted piece in half along the longest side so the shortest sides meet at the top.
  5. Join the sides together with yarn along the long edges, leaving the short edge open for your phone.

N.B. If you want to make it for a narrower/wider phone, adjust the amount of stitches you cast on (i.e. less stitches for a narrower phone). The length is dependent on the amount of rows you knit – it needs to measure just over twice the length of the phone.

garter stitch beginner green knitted phone cover

You can personalise it further by sewing on ribbon, felt shapes or pretty buttons