Chevron scarf pattern

I’m sure you’ve noticed the temperature dropping so it is the perfect time to start knitting a scarf for the winter months ahead. The design of this scarf makes it a suitable gift for both males and females.

As with my other knitting patterns, this scarf is a rectangle with no increases or decreases, so is suitable for those with basic knitting abilities – as well as being a quick project for the more experienced 😉

grey chevron knitted unisex scarf pattern beginnerAbbreviations I have not mentioned before are:

Sl1 – slip stitch knitwise (put right needle through stitch on left needle as if to knit but just slip it onto right needle without knitting)

Sl1p – slip stitch purlwise (put right needle through stitch on left needle as if to purl but just slip it onto right needle without purling)

Here is a video I found on Youtube that demonstrating slip stitches

By slipping, instead of working the first stitch on the row, you end up with a neater edge!

Chevron Scarf

I used 7mm needles & 100g chunky yarn to make a scarf approx 5″ wide & 44″ long. Use more yarn for a longer scarf.

As this is a scarf you do not need to check the gauge.

Cast on 24 sts

For beginning row only (RS): [K2, p2] 4 sts in brackets to be repeated 5 more times.

Now continue with Row 1 of 1st pattern

1st Pattern:
Row 1 : Sl1, k1, [p2, k2] to last 2 sts, p2
Row 2: Sl1, [p2, k2] to last 3 sts, p2, k1
Row 3: Sl1p, [k2, p2] to last 3 sts, k2, p1
Row 4: Sl1, p1, [k2, p2] to last 2 sts, k2
Row 5: Sl1p, p1, [k2, p2] to last 2 sts, k2
Row 6: Sl1p, [k2, p2] to last 3 st3, k2, p1
Row 7: Sl1, [p2, k2] to last 3 sts, p2, k1
Row 8: Sl1p, k1, [p2, k2] to last 2 sts, p2

Rows 1-8 of 1st pattern repeated (in total 16rows)

2nd pattern:

Row 1: Sl1, k1, [p2, k2] to last 2 sts, p2
Row 2: Sl1, [k2, p2] to last 3 sts, k2,p1
Row 3: Sl1, [p2, k2] to last 3 sts, p2, k1
Row 4: Sl1p, p1, [k2, p2] to last 2 sts, k2
Row 5: Sl1p, p1, [k2, p2] to last 2 sts, k2
Row 6: Sl1p, [p2, k2] to last 3 st3, p2, k1
Row 7: Sl1p, [k2, p2] to last 3 sts, k2, p1
Row 8: Sl1, k1, [p2, k2] to last 2 sts, p2

Now repeat rows 1-8 of 2nd pattern (in total 16 rows)

Continue working as above: 1st pattern (8 rows) twice followed by 2nd pattern (8 rows) twice until desired length. For the best effect, try to finish at the end of the 2nd repeat of a pattern.

Cast off


I must update my blog more often!

I may have been busy over the last couple of months but should really have put some time aside to keep my blog updated. I finished my first large item of clothing using fairisle technique last week, so maybe that’s a good place to start.

I saw the Scribble Tanktop pattern in issue 44 of The Knitter and it screamed DAVE! My partner Dave already owns a couple of patterned tanktops and is also a big fan of the colour brown, so I decided to use the recommended yarn which also added a bit of variety to his wardrobe – i.e blue

I had to learn the continental method of knitting to alternate between my standard method for the brown (working yarn in right hand) and the continental for the blue (working yarn in left hand). This ensured I kept the brown yarn above the blue as I knitted without having to keep swapping the yarn in my right hand and avoided the 2 yarns getting tangled. I’ve found it really rewarding to learn the continental method for knit stitch as it is much quicker to work. The tanktop was knitted in the round so I only had to purl rows after shaping for the arm holes. I recommend persevering with learning it if you can’t already!

You can also buy the Scribble Tanktop pattern separately on The Making Spot website.

starting fairisle technique for tanktop in The Knitter

I experimented to find the best method for the 2 colour yarns on the back of the knitting. I tried ‘wrapping’ the yarn as shown above (stops you having long stretches of loose yarn) but as the maximum length was 6 stitches I settled on leaving it loose as the front looked better

first repeat of fairisle scribble pattern tanktop from The Knitter

It took a while to get my tension right, so the yarn travelling across the stitches on the back wasn’t too tight, but became really easy once I got used to swapping between the blue and brown yarn. There are 2 different rows of repeat scribble designs that are offset

fairisle scribble tanktop knitted in the round

I really like how the gap between rows increases from the bottom of the tank to the top and the great thing about knitting in the round is less joins to sew 🙂

fairisle scribble tanktop modelled by Dave

As you can see, my partner Dave is very proud of his new tanktop 🙂

Springtime cardi is finished!

I have completed my cardigan and it is still Springtime! 🙂

alpaca lace knit bat wing sleeve cardigan

The waistband was added by picking up the stitches along the bottom of the lace knit body as the cast on row. When this was completed the neckband (knitted separately) was attached. I added press stud fasteners and the cardi is finished!

cream sideways knit lace alpaca yarn cardigan

This is the cardi after completing the two sideway knit sleeve

lace cardi knit sideways joined centre back

The batwing sleeves each include half the body section and are sewn together down the centre of the back to assemble

My dress is finished!

At last I can show you the finished dress!

It’s a shift dress but if I want a fitted look it can be worn with a belt. I decided not to make a belt in the pink fabric as planned but think it looks more interesting with a gold or tan belt.

making short sleeve shift dress with patch pocketsmaking block colour dress with peter pan collar patch pocketsdress opening on shoulder with press stud and collarThe shoulder opening is fastened simply with a press stud and the collar fixes over it with another press stud.

understitching facing on dress neckline

understitching on facing close to neckline seam

how dress facing on neckline looks from inside

how dress facing on neckline looks from inside

no stitching visible on rightside of dress neckline

no stitching visible on rightside of dress neckline

Some of the useful techniques I picked up while making the dress were:

1) understitching – sewing close to seam on facing to make the facing around the neckline sit flat. I found a good understitching video on YouTube.

2) invisible hand hemming – this is an old hand stitching method.

(Top of picture) Inside dress – the stitches sit close to the edge of the hem (should be hidden – I think I need more practice!)

(Bottom of picture) You shouldn’t be able to see the stitches on the right side of the dress.

Here is another useful You Tube video showing blind stitch hemming to help you understand how to sew a hem by hand.

I hope this has inspired you to take the plunge and start making a dress too! 🙂

My dress is coming together…

I have altered my dress to fit better. First I turned the dress inside out, then another friendly person attending the sewing class pinned it together along the seams to the altered shape, while I was wearing it. After tacking the altered seams together to check the fit, I machine sewed it together. It is still a ‘shift dress’ shape so not too fitted. I have also attached the patch style pockets and sleeves. The pockets are simple rectangle shapes with the edges turned under and hemmed before attaching to the dress. I’m going to add beige cuffs to the short sleeves for an extra bit of detail 🙂

The shoulder opening allows me to remove the dress over my head easily. I’m still trying to decide whether I should close it with cute little buttons, press studs or velcro? As I have decided to lower the neckline and add a ‘Peter Pan’ style beige collar detail, buttons may make it a bit too busy. The collar is in two halves – purely decorative and only attached to the front of the dress. The collar finishes over the left shoulder where it opens so will need to velcro onto this area to be pulled back when opening. I drew the collar shape freehand on tissue paper. When I had a shape I was happy with I added the allowance for a hem and cut two pieces – reversing one. Next step is to cut two pieces in fabric for each side of the collar

making shift dress with shoulder opening and patch style pocketsdress opening on shoulderpeter pan dress collar pattern

Geometric sock pattern

The sewing class was cancelled last week due to snow so I have put my dress on hold until I can get some advice on making alterations.

I like to have lots of projects on the go so decided to design a simple sock pattern. Although the design would be a lot more visible with plain yarn I have some lovely self patterning yarn in my stash that I really wanted to use so I’m using Drops Fabel sock yarn in 903p. The yarn print colours are so nice that I knew the socks would look lovely. Also I can use the leftover yarn to make more squidgy hexipuffs for my quilt 😉

This isn’t suitable for a beginner but anyone who can knit in the round (maybe you’ve tried the hexipuffs and want something more challenging). The goemetric pattern texture is made simply from alternated knit and purl stitches, the heel isn’t as difficult and fiddly as many patterns and they are knitted from the toe up so you can try them on for size as you go!

knitting toe up geometric pattern sockknitting toe up geometric pattern socks design on DPNsclose up knitted geometric sock patternGeometric pattern socks

I am knitting with 100g Drops Fabel sock yarn (2 x 50g balls) or you can use 100g of any 4 ply yarn and a set of 5 double pointed needles size 2.75mm/US#2

My socks fit a medium size woman 8inch/20cm circumference unstretched and 11inch/28cm stretched. The foot can be knitted any length to fit

To make these socks I have used Judy’s magic cast on for the toe and Judy’s surprisingly stretchy bind off for the cuff of the socks

These are really useful techniques to know. Click on the highlighted techniques above to link to videos on You Tube

You will also need to follow a chart for the geometric design. As you are working in the round and always face the right side of the sock you will read the pattern from right to left, travelling up the pattern as you work on each row

Start at the bottom right stitch. The chart is for 7 stitches so repeated  i.e knit stitch 1-7 of the row then start at 1 on the same row again and repeat these stitches as many times as needed for the patterned area

The abbreviations used are:

DPN – double pointed needle

K – knit

KFB – knit into both front of stitch (as normal Knit) then also the back of the same stitch (increases by 1 stitch). This creates a stitch with a bar across mimicking a purl stitch then a knit stitch from one stitch

M1L – make 1 left to increase by 1 stitch. Use the tip of left needle to pick up the horizontal strand of yarn before the next stitch to be knitted. Pick up front to back of strand and knit through the back of this new stitch. Makes a left leaning stitch increase

M1R – make 1 right to increase by 1 stitch. Use the tip of left needle to pick up the horizontal strand of yarn before the next stitch to be knitted. Pick up back to front of strand and knit through the front of this new stitch. Makes a right leaning stitch increase. You use M1L/M1R to increase and get a symmetrical look

P – Purl

P2tog – put tip of right needle through the front of the next two stitches and purl together as with a single purl stitch

SL – slip a stitch. Use tip of right needle to pick up the stitch as if to knit/purl but just slip it off the left needle so it has been transferred without working on it

St/sts – stitch/stitches

SSK – slip slip knit to decrease a stitch. Slip the next two stitches as with slip stitch so they are on the right needle then push the left needle through the front of these stitches from left to right and knit both of them together

Both socks are identical


Using 3 of your DPNs cast on 24 stitches using Judy’s magic cast on method. You will have knitted into the front of 12 stitches on the 1st needle and the back of the 12 sts on the 2nd needle for one row. Transfer 6 of the stitches from each needle onto another DPN being careful not to twist them. You now have 4 needles with 6 sts on each and now ready to start the toe increase

Row 1 – KFB. Knit rest of stitches on needles 1 & 2 until the last stitch on needle 2 and KFB on that stitch. Repeat on needles 3 & 4

Row 2 – Knit all stitches

Keep repeating these 2 rows 7 more times. You will increase by 4 sts each repeat and finish after row 2 with 56 sts


The first 28 sts (needles 1 & 2) form the instep of the sock and the remaining 28sts (needles 3 & 4) the sole

Pattern chart

geometric pattern knitting chartWork the 7 sts of the pattern 4 times over the instep stitches and knit all 28 sole stitches. Continue, repeating the chart pattern after row 14, until the foot is 2 ½” / 6½cm shorter than your foot length. Take a note of the amount of rows worked to ensure the other sock matches

Heel Gusset

Row 1 – Continue pattern across instep stitches. On sole stitches (needles 3 & 4) K1, M1L, knit until last sole stitch, M1R, K1

Row 2 – Continue pattern across instep. Knit all sole stitches without increasing

Repeat these 2 rows until the sole has 52sts, ending after row 1 of repeat

Continue pattern across instep stitches. The shaping for the heel is worked only on the sole stitches

* Take note of the last row of the pattern you worked as you will need to continue from here later

Heel shaping

Start from 1st stitch of sole. Row:

  1. K27, SSK, K1, turn
  2. SL1, P3, P2tog, P1, turn
  3. SL 1, K4, SSK, K1, turn
  4. SL1, P5, P2tog, P1, turn
  5. SL 1, K6, SSK, K1, turn
  6. SL1, P7, P2tog, P1, turn
  7. SL 1, K8, SSK, K1, turn
  8. SL1, P9, P2tog, P1, turn
  9. SL 1, K10, SSK, K1, turn
  10. SL1, P11, P2tog, P1, turn
  11. SL 1, K12, SSK, K1, turn
  12. SL1, P13, P2tog, P1, turn
  13. SL 1, K14, SSK, K1, turn
  14. SL1, P15, P2tog, P1, turn
  15. SL 1, K16, SSK, K1, turn
  16. SL 1, P17, P2tog, P1, turn
  17. SL 1, K18, SSK, K1, turn
  18. SL1, P19, P2tog, P1, turn
  19. SL 1, K20, SSK, K1, turn
  20. SL1, P21, P2tog, P1, turn
  21. SL 1, K22, SSK, K1, turn
  22. SL1, P23, P2tog, P1, turn
  23. SL 1, K24, SSK, K1, turn
  24. SL1, P25, P2tog, P1, turn
  25. SL 1, K27 (28stitches)

To re-join the heel to the instep without creating a hole at the join you need to pick up a stitch between the last heel stitch and the first instep stitch as in M1L. Instead of knitting the stitch alone, knit it together through the back of the loop along with the next instep stitch. This will count as the first stitch of the instep row

The pattern for the instep will continue from the last row * before the heel shaping.

After completing this instep row (28stitches) pick up a stitch as in M1L and knit it together through the back along with the next heel stitch. This will count as the first stitch of the heel row. Knit across the remaining heel stitches (28stitches)


Continue knitting in the round across ALL 56 STITCHES IN THE PATTERN REPEAT until the leg is 4” / 10cm long (or desired height if you have enough yarn). Take a note of the amount of rows worked to ensure the other sock matches.

Rib (K1 stitch, P1 stitch – repeated over 56 stitches) for 2 rows

Bind off using Judy’s surprisingly stretchy bind off  technique

I have started making my dress!

I started making my dress last week 🙂

I have chosen to make the main body from the green fabric, the sleeves from the pink and the pockets from the light beige.

easy dress pattern cut

I cut the pattern pieces - pinning them all to the fabric first to make sure they all fit before cutting any. I also made sure the direction of the grain markings on the pattern matched the fabric. After measuring myself and checking the pattern measurements, the nearest size is the 'M' medium size pattern markings

dress pattern cut and marked

I marked the points to match up when assembling with a tack stitch in contrasting colour thread. There are also notches on the edge of the pattern that will line up with the other pieces when attached

front of dress tacked to be altered

As you can see, although I have hand tacked the dress body pieces together as the pattern is marked, I need to make some alterations to fit me. At this stage I look like I'm about to perform surgery!

back of dress tacked to be altered

The back is in two pieces (the left side has the extra fabric for buttoning on the shoulder) so tacked together down the centre. This is ideal as it means I can alter the dress on this seam

dress darts stitched

I machine stitched the darts on the front piece before temporarily assembling the body, making sure they were stitched accurately so they sit correctly

dress neckline to alter

The neckline will be a little lower when hemmed. I still think it will be too high so considering altering it before cutting the interfacing to match (this is a lining inside around the neckline). I also think it would look better with a peter pan style collar in beige so will need to draft my own pattern for that!